The Nasty Truth About Cosmetics
I was chatting with a friend this week about her 14 year old daughter’s obsession with Sephora, and the messaging on social media encouraging teens to use anti-wrinkle creams. I was shocked and horrified at this little-discussed development in raising teens and threat to the health of the next generation.
I am very thankful to have raised boys, other than my now-adult step-daughter who learned the “girl stuff” from her Mom. I can count on one hand the times I have worn makeup in the last 20 years and it usually involved a wedding. I actually have a family wedding next month which is black tie but I won’t be wearing make-up!
Skin Basics
Our skin is actually the largest organ in our body in terms of overall size and weight. It is also one of the most fascinatingly complex. It gives us our sense of touch. It enables the synthesis of vitamin D when sunlight falls on it. It works as a barrier to protect us against water loss, physical and chemical injury, and unwanted invaders like microorganisms. It helps regulate our core temperature and protects us against UV radiation from the sun.
Yet, for all its protective properties, our skin is remarkably absorbent. We call this: dermal permeability.
Big pharma takes advantage of dermal permeability as it finds new ways of delivering drugs for convenience or to avoid passage through the digestive tract. Think of nicotine patches to help quit smoking or hormone patches to counter the hot flashes of menopause.
The permeability of our skin enables Essential Oils to be such a powerful modality for healing.
The downside of dermal permeability is the risk of toxin exposure. While the food-like-substances we put in our mouths, or chemicals we inhale can also do damage, the significant surface area of our skin compared to any other part of our body, enhances the threat.
Personal Care Products
According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), “on average, women use 12 personal care products a day, exposing themselves to 168 chemical ingredients. Men use six, exposing themselves to 85 unique chemicals”.
Do you ever look at the ingredients in those products?
In my earlier post, Detoxing Tips for a Modern World, I provided a check-list of items to review your overall toxic load including shampoos and conditioners, soap, lotions and body oils, toothpaste and mouthwash, and even the clothes that you wear next to your skin. But the #1 culprit I listed was make-up as the properties of most cosmetics – long-lasting, waterproof, bright colors – requires some of the most health-damaging chemicals.
Young girls who are active, eating well, and getting sunlight on their skin, do not need any products beyond a gentle shampoo and natural toothpaste. Their desire to experiment with cosmetics comes from social media influences and peer pressure. Their long term health and fertility is greatly at risk.
Here’s a few sample ingredients that show up in cosmetics especially the cheaper brands marketed to a younger crowd.
8 Harmful Chemicals in Cosmetics
PFAS (Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances), also known as “forever chemicals” for their inability to break down in the body or the environment. This makes them a particularly serious health issue for young people building up their exposure over many years. They are added to cosmetics to increase their durability and make water resistant. They are also used in non-stick cookware, paints, and food packaging.
In a recent study of over 200 cosmetic products in the US, over half contained high levels of PFAS. They are known endocrine disruptors which means they interfere with hormone function and have been linked to fertility problems, kidney disease and thyroid disfunction.
Parabens are a group of chemicals often used as a preservative in cosmetics to keep mold and bacteria from growing, prolonging shelf-life. Three of the most common are methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben. These substances can mimic the hormone estrogen, disrupting the body’s own production and causing imbalances. They have been especially linked to breast cancer risk and thyroid problems.
A 2018 study of adolescent girls showed that those who wore makeup daily had much higher levels of parabens in their urine compared to those who rarely or never wore makeup. Some manufacturers are moving to “paraben-free” products but they are likely using other preservatives that have problems of their own.
Phthalates are colorless, odorless, oily liquids that are also referred to as “plasticizers”. They are used as solvents and stabilizers in nail polish and other cosmetics. Diethylphthalate is the most common version used in cosmetics, according to the FDA as well as dimethyl phthalate and dibutyl phthalate. They are also on the list of endocrine disrupters interfering with hormone function as well as being implicated in heart disease and diabetes.
Fragrances can pose a dual risk as you are inhaling the chemicals as well as absorbing through your skin. Historically, natural botanicals such as essential oils were used to add pleasant aromas. But in recent years it was found to be cheaper to manufacture synthetic forms of fragrance from chemicals which have been found to be endocrine disrupters and have neurotoxic and other effects.
Some manufacturers will put “natural fragrance” on the label to throw you off but while this may exclude the worst offenders it still involves a harsh industrial process with a range of chemicals. For example, Lilial can be included under “natural fragrance” in the US to add floral aromas to the substance but has been banned in the EU as carcinogenic and mutagenic (causing cancers and reproductive harms: fertility and fetal development.)
FD&C Color Pigments are synthetic dyes approved by the FDA for use in foods, drugs & cosmetics. They are widely found in lipstick, mascara, eyeshadow, blush, and other facial makeups. Synthetic colors, often made from coal tar, contain heavy metal salts that deposit toxins in the skin, with many shown to be carcinogenic. They also deplete oxygen in the body and can cause skin sensitivity and irritation.
Formaldehyde is a known carcinogen and can also cause allergic reactions. It is used as a preservative and nail polish hardener. Paraformaldehyde and Methylene glycol are alternative forms also commonly used plus Quaternium15 selected due to its slow release of formaldehyde.
Mineral oil and petroleum jelly. Often found in lipsticks, eyeshadows and foundation, they are used as a moisturizing agent. Petroleum jelly is derived from crude oil and is commonly used to coat the skin like plastic wrap. However, this disrupts the skin’s natural immune barrier and the skin then loses its ability to breathe and release toxins, which can promote acne or other skin disorders. It also slows down normal skin cell development, causing the skin to prematurely age.
Triclosan. More often a problem in toothpaste, deodorant and skin lotions, it does show up in some cosmetics as an antibacterial agent. It can cause liver damage, and even small amounts have been linked to thyroid problems.
There are other culprits with dubious safety records and you cannot rely on a complete list of ingredients to know what to avoid. Labels can be deceiving or omit important information.
If you’re an adult and need to look your best for your wedding or a job interview then seek out safer options from reputable brands that put your health before their profit. Some resources are below.
But if you have a daughter or influence over the younger generation please educate them on the long-term risks to their health from regular use of cosmetics. Encourage an embrace of their natural beauty to let their skin breathe openly and absorb sunlight. If acne or other skin conditions have developed, further promoting a desire to cover their skin, provide education on the connection between internal body and gut health with radiant skin.
Here’s some quick tips on skin-friendly practices:
Drink plenty of water. Not sodas or coffee. Skin needs hydration to function well.
Avoid excess sugar – particularly added sugar from soda, candy, and baked goods.
Consider eliminating gluten and dairy which can exacerbate skin problems.
Load up on plenty of organic fruits and vegetables – the polyphenols in plants naturally protect your skin from UV radiation and promote healing.
Optimize your microbiome. Studies show that the gut and microbiome are closely linked to skin health. Avoid antibiotics (in pharmaceuticals, products and food), eat plenty of fiber from plants, and consider taking a high-quality probiotic or eat fermented foods.
Use natural skincare products and lip balm if needed, using coconut oil, shea butter, jojoba oil and essential oils.
