Adventures Are Good For the Soul
A couple of weeks ago I packed up my car with a bunch of clothes, some food items and my laptop with only the idea to complete two bucket list hikes in Zion National Park over my birthday. It’s about 18 hours driving from where I live in the San Antonio, Texas area, so I decided to stop off in northern New Mexico to hike in the forests around Albuquerque first.
I’ve written before about The Nature Cure for Mental Health and why Everyone Should Have an AwayDay Once in a While but the stakes were higher this time. With a lot of life changes taking place the last 12 months and much out of my control, I needed a full body and brain reset away from daily chores, responsibilities and expectations of others.
While I am blessed to have the benefit of being able to work anywhere my laptop gets a signal, just about anyone can get out of their daily comfort zone and seek new experiences with just a little bit of planning. The result may be a whole new perspective on life and the renewed energy to persevere.
A Cabin in the Woods
My adventure really started 11 hours later as I pulled up to the little cabin in the woods I’d booked for 5 nights on the HipCamp website. Totally secluded with no sounds other than the birds and other animals going about their business.
One notch up from camping I had a real bed, sofa, a fridge and Wi-Fi inside. Out on the porch I could sit and watch the birds, cook on a camp stove and contemplate life. There was a well-built outhouse with a bucket toilet and an outdoor shower with hot water. I had brought food supplies and basically ate the same thing every day: simple whole foods that met my basic nutritional needs.
Each day I picked a different hike within a 20-minute drive using the app AllTrails. 6-8 miles at a time of moderate intensity to prepare me for the more rigorous adventures in Zion. I got lost on two occasions and added extra mileage, one time getting rained on. But as long as I brought enough water, snacks and a rain jacket I was able to embrace the challenges.
I kept my phone switched off and just used Wi-Fi as needed when working in the evenings. The peaceful mornings were for Bible study, journaling, and stretching. I also used the trip to read The Life-Changing Art of Self-Brain Surgery by W. Lee Warren, a neurosurgeon – a useful and practical guide to improving your thought-life.
I started to understand why people go off grid and live alone as hermits. For a while during this trip it seemed like an attractive proposition. Human interaction can be difficult and energy-zapping to those of us who are introverts.
The Bucket List Calls
Day 6 was a driving day as I made my way over to the Utah/Arizona border stopping at a Sprouts grocery store in Albuquerque on the way to replenish supplies. This time my accommodation was known as Gypsy Cottage, another secluded find on HipCamp. Quite unique, it had indoor plumbing and running water with a gorgeous view of the red rock mountains typical in the area known as the Cane Beds. Still no humans to be seen but there were some dogs and cows making their presence known.
Day 7 was a Sunday so I watched our church service online and started to connect with friends and family at home a bit. I felt a shift in my nervous system, maintaining the calm of being in nature while tentatively engaging with humans.
It is very clear that God has wired us to be in relationships with other humans and that our physiology depends on human interaction. Us introverts need to find ways to achieve measurable connection that doesn’t sap us of our spirit. I have found that prayer can be that intercessor.
My friends and family were worried about me. My supercharged brain full of facts and figures doesn’t leave much room for common sense as my later scrapes would attest. But with me so far away all they could do is pray for my safety and thankfully God heard those prayers.
A Narrow Escape
The plan for Day 8 was originally to do The Narrows, a famous hike through a slot canyon in Zion National Park that is mostly hiking up through the river. When catching up with my Eagle Scout son in college the day before, he suggested that Monday was forecasted rain and may not be the best time to do that hike. So I moved my gear reservation with the nice folks at Zion Guru to Thursday getting a recommendation for a different hike Monday. (The Narrows is best attempted with special boots, neoprene socks and a thick wooden walking stick).
I headed out early driving through the Cane Beds to the East entrance of Zion NP and along the 20-mile scenic road to the visitors center. My first time in Zion took my breath away. I’d seen photos but nothing compares to being up close to those other-worldly rock formations. I didn’t take any photos that first drive knowing I’d be back another day, I just took it all in to imprint on my brain.
I got a parking spot at the visitor’s center and jumped on a shuttle to my first planned hike, the Kayenta Trail which connected to the Emerald Pools trails and down to a different shuttle stop at the Lodge. A great introduction to what Zion has to offer.
After my packed lunch and looking around the visitor’s center some more I decided to set out on the Watchman Trail which started right behind the visitor’s center and went up to one of the mesas claiming to boast a great view. It was starting to rain but I reasoned I had a rain jacket with me and I quite liked hiking in the rain.
I turned the sound off on my phone which even without cell service was loudly beeping about Flash Flooding in the area. I took that to mean be careful when you’re driving. The visitor’s center indicated they had closed The Narrows so I was thankful I hadn’t attempted that one. But there were no warnings about other trails.
The rain got more violent as I proceeded up the Watchman and forked lightning started around me. I was a little uneasy but with only a mile to go to the top thought I could manage it.
Then as I rounded a corner I came across a German couple who were sheltering under a rock overhang looking nervous. They didn’t think it was a good idea for me to continue so I squeezed into the crevice with them right as a stream of water started pouring over the top of the overhang.
The flow got heavier and heavier until a wall of water started washing out the trail. (check out this video I took). Mud was splashing all over us and we worried we’d be swept off the ledge and down the mountainside. The force of the water was incredible.
We clung to the rock for 45 minutes until the storm passed and the mud wall started to ease. We decided conditions weren’t going to improve too much more so once we could jump over one area of the river that had formed at our feet the three of us started making our way back down. I am eternally thankful to my new friends Maria and Alex who quite literally probably saved my life that day.
The trail was washed out in several places and we had to detour multiple times, finally stumbling into an area that housed the Ranger accommodations. They told us how to get back to the visitor’s center, scolding us for being out on the trails. The Watchman was closed the rest of the week for repairs!
The picturesque Virgin River that winds through Zion canyon was now a raging torrent of water. I made it out of the park and back to the Cane Beds but the storm raged all night. Apparently it’s monsoon season in Utah – they don’t put that on the websites!
The Angel Landed
Day 9, Tuesday, brought a quick trip to the Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park 20 minutes down the road from the cottage. I also filled out the online lottery to get a permit to hike Angels Landing the next day. The road into Zion was closed to remove debris and fallen rocks; it was a good day to avoid the area.
Day 10 was my birthday with Angel’s Landing (bucket list hike #1) on the agenda. Everything went to plan, entering the Park from the East again, this time stopping to hike the Canyon Overlook Trail to see the early morning view. A little crowded but a really nice hike I completed in under an hour. Low effort showcasing all that Zion has to offer.
Parking again at the visitor’s center, I took the shuttle to the start of the West Rim trail which leads to Angels. Two miles straight up via steep switchbacks was quite a challenge. But I was excited to start the rock-climbing portion. It was very busy given this it’s the most popular hike in the Park with only one route up to the summit using chains. Everyone was very friendly, cooperative and patient. It is the same tight route up and down so you’re following quite closely and waiting for people coming in the other direction.
A little nerve wracking being out on a ledge with a steep drop on either side and then feeling insecure at the top with a strong wind blowing. (Check out this video from the top). But overall it was a great experience. I was thoroughly worn out when I made it all the way back down.
I treated myself to a gelato that afternoon before heading to the Zion Guru store to pick up my Narrows gear for the next day. And for the first time all trip I skipped the basic provisions and treated myself to a birthday dinner at a nice restaurant in Springdale.
Better Decision Making
I knew Day 11 was going to be a long one. The bottom-up Narrows hike (bucket list hike #2) is estimated to take at least 8 hours. It’s an out and back so you can choose to turn around at any point but I wanted bragging rights to have completed the whole hike to Big Spring five miles in.
My morning routine was already tested, leaving the cottage by 6.30am having packed plenty of supplies: an egg sandwich for breakfast, some bone-broth to sip on the way, bison jerky, a banana, nuts and seeds, thunderbird bars and nearly 3 liters of water. I pulled into my preferred parking spot at the visitor’s center by a picnic table just after 8am, changed into my neoprene socks and waterproof boots and added two layers of sweatshirts as it gets cold in the Narrows canyon.
The shuttle ride takes 45-minutes to the start of Riverside Walk which is a one-mile trail leading to the start of The Narrows. I stopped to have breakfast at the end of that mile, sitting on a wall watching other people enter the river to start their trek. Given the large amount of rain earlier in the week, I’d been warned that the river was fairly high and recommended to take a dry bag to keep my valuables and snacks protected in the deep areas. The dry bag has to be carefully sealed so I wasn’t sure when I’d next be able to stop for food.
The next 2-3 miles were possibly one of my favorite hikes ever. It was such a unique experience to trek through the water using the stick to test depth and being mindful of every step to avoid slips while gazing at the amazing walls of rock on either side.
I found myself following other people who seemed to have found the best route through a particular section so managed to get a few photos taken as we struck up conversations. The crowds definitely thinned after the first mile as many people just came for the initial experience and didn’t intend to go the whole way.
It was chilly to start with walking in knee-deep water most of the time. Occasionally a little sun peeked through the rocks and I’d pause to soak up a few rays. Eventually I was able to shed the sweatshirts due to the exertion.
My attitude changed about 4 miles in though when a particularly deep section meant I couldn’t avoid swimming for a few seconds. Submerged up to my neck it was COLD! Dripping wet and starting to feel tired I noticed that I was alone in that next section of the river. With many twists and turns you don’t know what’s around the next bend but it was eerie feeling alone amongst the vast rock faces.
I continued another 20 minutes or so and came to a sunny clearing where three young men were resting and snacking. I was grateful for the warmth of the sun which dried off my T-shirt, and hungrily ate my packed lunch. I discussed with the young men how far we thought it was to Big Spring and whether they were planning to attempt it. They were not.
Weighing up my bragging rights against the prospect of my continuing alone and still having the return journey ahead of me when I was already tiring, I made the very good decision to turn back at that point.
It was late afternoon before I made it back to the Riverside Walk and had to really push myself that last mile back to the shuttle stop. I closed my eyes and took a little nap on the shuttle I was so spent. Pulling off those wet boots back at the car and getting some warm dry socks on was such a welcome relief.
A great experience, and I will do it again if the opportunity arises, but I will leave bragging rights to someone else.
The Rock Bowl
Day 12 was planned as a rest day, to think about winding my way back home and assess provisions and dirty clothes. I had seen a concert advertised for that evening in the town of Hurricane at an outdoor venue which seemed like fun. As I would be driving out there though I decided to check out the Sand Hollow State Park nearby first. I ended up spending the afternoon there exploring the red sandstone structures surrounding this picturesque reservoir in nearly 100 degree heat.
The concert venue was part of a golf resort and a regular feature in the area. Built in between the red rock formations it was a beautiful sight as the sun started going down over the mountains. I love live music of all kinds. This happened to be a large band including a brass section playing various songs that had significant horn solos and then fell into a tribute to the rock band Chicago.
Chatting a little with my seat neighbors I found most people were locals and had retired to the Utah area. In fact, in one of those serendipitous moments, I bumped into friends from back in California who I hadn’t seen or spoken to in a year and who had recently decided to retire to the area. It was a reminder of community and connection. I needed to wind up my little escapade and get home.
Hanging with the Hoodoos
It was actually my husband who suggested I wasn’t far from Bryce Canyon National Park and I should check out this most unique natural wonder before heading home.
Bryce was under two hours from the cottage so I decided to make a day trip of it. Setting off early as the sun was starting to rise over the Cane Beds, Day 13 was a great wrap up to my big adventure. I got to the visitor’s center shortly after 8.00am and chatted with a ranger to get the lay of the land and plan my day.
Bryce is a lot more accessible than Zion with a scenic road right through the middle of the action and plenty of ways for non-hikers to see many of the sites. I parked first at Sunset Point and set off on this park’s most popular hike connecting the Navajo Loop Trail to the Queen’s Garden trail which ends at Sunrise Point. This combination descends into the Amphitheater, named for its iconic rock formations called hoodoos. I’d truly never seen anything like this combination of incredible geological structures nestled in a fairly ordinary looking pine forest.
Emerging from the amphitheater at Sunrise Point I walked along the rim and back over to the main road to pick up a shuttle that would take me over to Bryce Point further into the park. Here was the start of another trail called the Rim Trail that connects Bryce Point to Inspiration Point, a great option to avoid the crowds.
I picked up the shuttle again at Inspiration Point to get me back to my car. I then headed out on the 18-mile scenic drive to the southern most tip of the park which is actually its highest elevation at over 9,000ft.
Parking at Rainbow Point I hiked out to Yovimpa Point for a photo opp. Then continued on to the Bristlecone Loop trail showcasing the hardy Bristlecone pine trees that can withstand the harsh weather at this altitude and create some amazing living sculptures.
The altitude was kicking my butt a little and I was ready for lunch. My regular provisions weren’t going to cut it so I headed to the Bryce Canyon Lodge for a hamburger and fries!
Having seen the highlights of Bryce I decided I might as well head back to the cottage after lunch to pack up for home. I stopped by one last short trail technically outside the park called Mossy Cave which boasted a waterfall (and icicles in winter) but it either didn’t live up to the hype or I’d had my fill.
A Tire Story
Day 14 saw me finally heading home. I picked a southern route which would have me overnight in the familiarity of Las Cruces, New Mexico, which was our typical stop-over in the past when driving between California and Texas. It also meant I could check out the town of Flagstaff on the way.
Loving the drive itself in my high performance SUV I stayed on route 180 most of the day marveling at the scenery as I felt like an explorer on another planet. Seeing very few other cars as I navigated mountain roads and open expanses, I had no idea how important those prayers were of my friends and family back home.
Towards the end of the day as I was nearing civilization and the interstate freeway, a rear tire on my car shredded completely taking with it part of the body work and rendering my car impaired but operational. If it had happened on one of the mountain roads it could have been a far different outcome.
I was able to make it to the little town of Deming 20 minutes away where a very helpful Walmart Autozone employee put my spare tire on, and fully deflated the damaged tire so it would fit in my trunk. No charge! This enabled me to continue on the last 50 miles to Las Cruces for my overnight stay.
I won’t bore you further with the very long saga of trying to find my specialty tires anywhere in Las Cruces or El Paso, 50 miles further. Or the concern over the other rear tire meeting a similar fate. But after an extra day and night stranded in Las Cruces I ended up getting two new tires that were not rated for my car just to get me home.
A rather stressful last 500 miles driving on Day 16 with an unhappy car and finally I made it home.
Reflection
It was rather surreal re-entering my life after living as a solitary nomad for two weeks. But I do have a fresh outlook on life and a large stash of photos to remind me how tiny we each are in God’s amazing creation.
My German friends continued their road trip and ended up staying with us at our house in Texas spending a lovely evening comparing our worlds. Even though we speak different languages and live on different continents there are so many similarities in the human condition. I look forward to visiting them in Germany in the not too distant future.
I have written down the details of my trip to remind myself what transpired more than anything. But I do hope it has also inspired you to step away from the rat race once in a while and plan your own adventure, even if only for a weekend.
There is a big world out there that is entirely under God’s power whether it’s the sheer force of flash floods changing the landscape in mere hours, down to the human connections made in unlikely circumstances. Our worries and anxieties are no match for God’s master plan so we might as well let it unfold and loosen our grip, making the most of each moment and breath.
